TRAVEL REPORT

blt3.gif (1025 bytes) Baarn, Holland, 6 July 1999
Miri, Sarawak, Malaysia, 4 June 1999
blt3.gif (1025 bytes) Easter Island, 26 April 1999
Darwin, Australia, 10 May 1999

Easter Island, 26 April 1999

Dear readers,

As you have read on my homepage, I had a special way to invite my students thirty years ago for a geopolitical excursion. I posted on the bill board:" Rendez-vous on a certain place and hour". I had first the intention to have a Rendez-vous on the highest volcano top of the Easter Island, the Cerro Teravaka, 507 meters high (The name of the plane who brought me here was: Rendez-vous!). I invited my students of thirty years ago who participated on the Ego project. It turned out that they were not able to come all the way to Easter Island.

I arrived the 23rd of April on Easter Island after a flight of 34 hours. I will stay 9 days in a very nice guesthouse. The address I got from Internet: http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/8832/. You will see photos of the guesthouse, rooms and the receiving family: Lucia, Leo and the boy Pio, now 1 year older than on the photo. He will be my mascot for the next century! Leo goes every day at six o’clock in the evening to the East of the Island to guard over 800 cows.

At 30 minutes past midnight (Dutch time 8.30 in the morning Wednesday 28 April - the moment that my article will be presented on Internet - I will be walking with Leo on the barren hills of Easter Island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean to guard the cattle. It will be a good moment and place to memorize the fact that I occupied thirty years ago my room in the Geological Institute of Amsterdam. I did not want to teach geology to my students in the classical way, but more from a geopolitical point of view.

I told you already that I have chosen Easter Island as a metaphor for our Earth somewhere in the next century.

I visited the sinister remains of the lost civilization: the overthrown Stone Statues. How this civilization came to an end you can read in my article. I am now reading the excellent book of Paul Bahn and John Flenley: "Easter Island Earth Island", with the subtitle: " a message from our past for the future". Thames and Hudson LTD, London, 1992.

The last sentence of the preface by William Mulloy is very illustrative: "Given the decline of the Island’s culture, we should consider the parallels between the behaviors of the Easter Islanders in relation to their limited resources and our cavalier disregard for our own fragile natural environment: the earth itself. This is more, therefore, than an account of the rise and fall of an extraordinary prehistoric culture; if Easter Island seen as a microcosm of our own world, then this is, indeed, a cautionary tale relevant for the futures of all humankind".

I cannot think of a better way to express my feelings at the moment.

The second of May I will continue my world trip to the land of the Aboriginals in Northern Australia. To see with my own eyes how we can survive on this planet in the future.

Before the departure on my world trip I hold a lecture for the class of my grandson and I asked to give an answer on four questions. Their answers will be published on my homepage.

The four questions are:

1. Is life to survive?
2. What is life?
3. What is to survive?
4. How can we survive in the next century?

I sincerely hope that more people will give an answer to these questions.

I think it is important to redefine basic principles of life, in order to find an alternative way of life. By creating networks all over the world, maybe we can find a way out to escape from disaster.

Well I write you again from Aboriginal land.

With my kind regards

Tom de Booij


Darwin, Australia, 10 May 1999

Dear Reader,

The Easter Island has made such a great unexpected impression on me, that I have to know more on the recent history of the Island. Since the Dutchman Jacob Roggeveen, as the first european, saw the Island on Easter Day 5 April, 1722 at 5.30 p.m., much has happened since then. Quite a lot has been written and studied on the old lost civilization, but only a few publications can be found on the history since 1722. I have met a Swiss Jozef Schmid, who knows much about the recent history. He became in love of the Island and is there already 8 years.

Where on Earth you find people who are direct descendants of people who recently created a highly civilized society. The civilization who built the enourmous statues, up to 80 tons and were capable to transport these statues over tens of kilometers.(The Maois). The downfall of this civilization only happend so recently that it will be quite possible to reconstruct what has happened since then. It is an example how people can still survice up to the present. The study of the way of their survical may give us some clues and hints the way we have to survive next century, when probable the light will be turned off. This forms the reason that Jozef Schmid , my friend in Holland Peter Delahay(Foundationt Vulcanus) and my self decided to form a foundation Astro-Ego with as first project " How can we survive?"(The fourth question published in my first travel report). In order to answer this question we will start to study the history of the Easter Island since 1722. At first we will assemble all written material on this subject.Secondly we will visit the Island during a couple of months in order to interview people from the Island who pretend to be directly related to the people who built the gigantic statues. At the end of te 19th century there were only 111 people left on the Island after foreigners have killed or taken them form the island as slaves to the continent of South and North America. We have at the moment a population of nearly 3000 people living in a close community. The way they live, I felt quite some resemblances with the way our Reizigers of Holland are lliving togethetr. With great feeling of solidarity, taking care of the old and the sick. Anyhow quite different from the way of living in our electronized, mechanized, unpersonalized society. I asked quite a number of people on the Island if they are able to survive when the light will be turned off. No aeroplanes from the mainland, no gasoline for their cares. Without hesistation their answer was:"YES". How many people in my country Holland will give the same answer? 

The only people I can think of are the Reizigers. People who lived until 1968 a nomadic life and knew how to survive. As already explained in my recent article they were driven in 1968 in big concentration camps where they were not anymore able to execute their professions. Still they have been able to survive and have kept their own culture. Strangely enough in the middle of this century almost the same happend on Easter Island. The people were forced by the Chileans(who confiscated the Island last century) to stay in a restricted areas of the Island fenced by barbwire,witn two exits garded by police forces. Only during daylight and with a special permit they could leave the area. Only in 1964, after some hard and fierce fighting and actions, the fences were removed. Well this only is one of the many examples to demonstrate that the people of Easter island have suffered much and were still able to survive.

I left the Island Sunday 2 May with destination Tahiti. I left the island with great pain in the heart to say goodbye to the family I stayed during the last 10 days.Their warmth, their hospitality has been overwhelming. I caught the virus:RAPUNEUSIS POIKUS(The name of the Island is Rapa Nui and the most remote part of the island where the stone statues were erected is called Poike). The only way to cure this aggressive virus will be to return to the Island as soon as possible!! 

It was quite a cultural shock to arrive in Tahiti, full of tourists,traffic jams etc. I went with a ferry to the beutioful Island Moorea to the west. With a bicyle I made the round tour of the Island (75km) This gave me the occasion to talk to the local people, who ressembled remarkable with the people from the Easter Island.They were however more infected with the tourist virus. A second cultural shock came when I landed a day later ( by passing the dating line) in New Zealand. Everything was green and clean. The people were very polite but with love. They gave me no warm feeling as the people of Easter Island. The original people, the Maori are still there, but well dominated bu the white people. I was told that the receive money from the government in order to keep quiet.(Compare this with the money the Reizigers received from our government since 1968!) A bus trip to the North (200 km)gave the opportunity to see the landscape, but I could not feel any connection between the land and the people. They are not integrated with nature. The samen feeling I had visiting places where white people stole the country from the originals and succeeded to finish off their original culture. (Unites tates,Argentina, Chili etc).

Now I am looking forward to meet people who live in Australia for 50.000 years: the Aboriginals. I hope that I can still meet people who kept their original way of life. We will wait and see. Tomorow I will leave Darwin and go to Katherine.I hope to get a permission to visit an Aborinal community. Till then  all the best wishes from DOWN UNDER.

Tom de Booij


Miri, Sarawak, Malaysia, 4 June 1999

Dear Readers,

It has taken some time to integrate my thoughts about my visit to Aboriginal country. It may still be a report written by a confused mind, but anyhow this is what am thinking 10 days after I left Australia and travelling in a completely different country:Malaysia. These adventures will be described in my fourth travel report. Well, dear readers be prepared for a highly negative experience.Since 9 may, I visited the original country belonging to the Aborigines. But what a great disappointment I have experienced during my stay. 

Lets start with my first encounter with the Aboriginal people. 350 km South of Darwin, in the town of Katherine, I got finally ,with quiet some difficulty, the pernmision to visit an Aboriginal community. I entered an iron gate of a house, where a complete family (20) were sitting on the terrace and in the garden. It was 2 o'clock in the afternoon. Except two childern of 3 to 4 years old, everybody was drinking beer or a liquid that looked like alcohol of a purer form (the man said:"THIS IS GOOD STUFF" probably methyl alcohol). I explained to them the purpose of my world tour. "Oh you want to see the Aboriginal culture. This is our culture" he said. He was holding his glass of beer in front of my eyes with a fierce look in his eyes. 
This first cultural shock was unfortunately not the last one. In a social club of the dry community Jabiru in the National Park, the aboriginal have still the opportunity to drink beer as much as they like.In this respect I will quote some sentences of the minutes of council meetings in respect to this social club."Since the release of the report Era  we have unilaterally banned the takeaway sale from the Jaburu Sports and social club for a period of six months. This action generated a major protest from the population of Jabiru.Aboriginal drinkers have since then attempted to compensate for that restriction by travelling to the Mary river and Bark hut roadhouses to produce take-away supplies". When I visisted this club I saw a complete family totally drunk and playing the slotmachines, not for some small money .I have seen how they changed hunderd of dollars for coins at the bar. I had a conversation with a women called Heidi. She was proud of her German name. She was quite drunk, but tried to behave well,but all of a sudden she bursted out in saying:"You white men, you killed us all". 
The third example of my sad experiences was, when we were looking for a doctor in the town of Buranga. This because we found an Australian couple along a dirt road in the middle of the bush in a totally smashed car. The man apparently was badly hurt.The nearest town was 30 km away. When we entered the town we asked for the hospital. The first person we encountered was a women of about 60 years old, but so drunk that she could not speak a word. The second person was a man, also terrible drunk but while he was waggling on his feet, pointed in the direction where the hospital should be situated. 
The fourth example is when I was in a shop in a dry Aboriginal communuitry. There was a big poster on the wall with the following text: "DO NOT SNIFF PETROL" Youngsters from the camp are smuggling from nearby petrol stations their drug.

Well, these are my personal experiences and are examples of the widespread problem:ALCOHOLISM. I went to different libraries in order to check my experiences.Unfortunatley I found similar observations. In a Social impact study of the Jabiru region of 1997, I found the following sentences:
"There is a major alcohol problem in the community and concern about its effects on womens, children and family life. Domestic violence and childern left uncared for and growing up with violence and neglect are a common occurance.Young childern running around unsupervised at night, parents fighting, property damage and antisocial behavior.Women are losing their culture.Traditional knowledge, craft, stories and rituals are not being passed on, because people are more concerned with basic needs as food, shelter and health. Many children are not going to school because they have no food, money or packed lunch. The disruption of sleep and consequent neglect from parents drinking and fighting makes it difficult for childern who go to school to concentrate or function to their full capacity". So far some quotations of this report. 
It is not strange that only 7% of the childern reach a 12 year certificate.There is no obligation for the Aboriginal childern to go to school. What to think of some other figures of the statistics found in official reports: "Aboriginal people die 20 years earlier than the white Australians;40% is unemployed;1 non-indigenous to 15 Aboriginal prisoners,whereas they form only 1.6% of the total Australian population". I also read a transcript of a speech of Colin Tatz from the Macquerie University who have worked since the seventies wtih the Aboriginal people:
"The scale of Aboriginal drinking is cosmic even galactic. For me the alcohol is the agent , the avenue the effector of carnage that is taking place. Having survived because they had to - having survived the trading men, the whaler and sealermen, the church men, the beef and cattle men, the welfare men and now the mining men - there is no longer the challenge to go on,a kind of selfgenocide? Unlike our ordered societies where educational and technological changes evolve over time, Aborigines have been elided and telescoped across 300 years of industrial and technological revolution in some 30 years". He ends his speech with the dramatic words: "So with sadness and with some perhaps permissable impatience I look... at my 54 communities and my pessimism, returns, unbounded".
Patrick Dodson, an Aboriginal, published a paper in  1998 "Will the circle be unbroken". I quote some remarkable statements. " We were told that we could be equal if we hanged - if we stopped being ourselves, left our country, forget our laws, abandoned our social and cultural autonomy.It could be shed,like a snake sheds its skin. Left behind on the earth, until blown away with the winds. The whites acted to proscribe and determine the indigenous circle of survival, they all positioned themselves as the judge of what was the best for the indigenous people.Whether that was for the common good or for the vested interest was never clear for the blackfella perpective". He ends his paper: "We must today make a move toward a healed and reconciled nation. Tomorrow, the question will be academic".

The whole problem boils down to the fact that the Aboriginal people are not grown up in their culture with our most basis need in life : MONEY. For them it means nothing, only a way to buy alcohol in order to forget their misery. Not only the government gives them plenty of money without asking a recompensation, but they also get a lot of money from the mining companies for the rights to mine uranium and other valuable minerals from their sacred land. This money destroys their culture and especially their pride and identity. I call this without hesitation:
"MENTAL GENOCIDE". This happens in a country were next year the Olympic games will take place. It will be good then to remember that 300.000 original owners of the Australian land are still discriminated, their culture destroyed and are given money to keep them quiet and to to get drunk. The whites in Australia especuially in the South are not at all concerned about these problems. I had quite a number of conversations with the so called 'red necks' who openly said to me:
"We should kill them all, they are a nuisance, they are a pain in the neck. They get plenty of money and are not willing to work and to adjust to our culture. My answer to these red necks is: "Just let them alone, do not give them your conscience money. Let them take care of themselves. They are be more capable, then we are, to survive in the next century, when the lights will be turned off". But if we continue with this outrageous politics to give them money without any obligation from their side, we will finally succeed in destoying them, not only physically, but far more worse: also mentally!

I end my report with what a member of Parliament for Perth Mr R.M.McLean has said: "We have to ask ourselves what is the rationale behind providing communities and individuals with large amounts of cash? What is the rationale behind requiring them to work? What is the rationale behind the councils we have established? It is the 'white man's way'". Indeed Mr McLean you just said it! When tourists come to Australia on organised tours (these are extremely expensive),they are shown the Aboriginal culture and also their products of arts. The art products are sold not by the Aboriginal them selves but by other non-indigenous Australians. I have never seen an Aboriginal standing in the numerous shops selling against high prices their art products. Maybe a large amount is fabricated somewhere else but surely not in such great quantaties by the Aboriginals. They are far to much gone by the alcohol to produce all these objects. What I have have seen, is kept away from the tourists. This is very sad because the foreigners could put pressure on the Australian politicians especially with the Olympics is sight, in order to help improving the life of the Aborigines. Maybe we can start on the internet with a fierce  attack on the Australian government especially to their prime minister Howard. In todays newspaper there was just an article on the Aboriginal problem. Borneo post Friday, June 4 1999, p.15: "A historic draft of declaration aimed at achieving reconcilation with Australian Aborigines was released on Thursday only to run into controversy when Prime Minister John Howard said parts of it would be have to be changed". Howard has resisted calls for both an apology and a recognition of Aborigines custodianship in the past. 

Well my third travel report comes to an end, fortunately my fourth report will be far more pleasant to read. I have been travelling in Sarawak . A complete other world, full of hope for the future. Were people live who owns the land and can practise their own different cultures. Tomorrow I will go for seven days tracking trip in the jungle with the gatherers and hunters of the Penan Tribe. Last week I assisted a great festival in the middle of Sarawak among the Ibans, formely coming from Kalimantan (Indonesian Borneo). They were formely practising head hunting. Fortunatly they left my head on my shoulders, maybe to chaotic or radical? My best wishes from Asia, the continent of tomorrow? 

Tom de Booij.


Baarn, 6 July 1999

Already 3 weeks home, finally my last travel report. Reason of delay: a tropical bug got me. Fortunately the effects (high fever, diarrhea etc, probably intestinal parasitic disease and dysentery) became manifest two days after my return in The Netherlands on the 14 June, three days ahead of schedule. (I had already in Sarawak the feeling to get home as quick as possible!)

From Darwin I had to fly via Sydney to Kuala Lumpur (cheaper!). The impression of Kuala Lumpur, very luxurious hotels, the biggest building of the world (452 m) next to slumps and beggars. Hugh contrasts between a small powerful dictatorial elite and a poor population of 19 million people. I arrived two days later in Miri, an important town for timber companies, who are robbing the hardwood from the Penan tribe in the Eastern part of Sarawak. To visit this area is very difficult you need a special permit. The government does not like people who will later on report on the criminal deforestation. 4 people form Brunei arranged month ago with a travel agent in Miri a special hiking trip in the area where the Penan tribe live. I could join this group on the 5 June for a trip of 8 days, walking 50 km in the jungle upstream along the Baram River from Long Banga to Bario. To fill up the time I went by bus, 8 hours (350 km ) for the price of 34 RM (20 Dutch guilders) to Sibu, another big town at the mouth of the Rajang ( the longest river of Malaysia 563 km). More than 50 % Chinese people live here. Due to the big harvest festival the Gaiwai, every hotel was fully booked, finally I found a small hotel where the man asked if I wanted a women. "Not yet". Next morning with an express boat (like an airplane without wings) to Kapit with a speed of 50 km per hour. You have to stay inside and watch Chinese fighter's films. The river is dark brown and full of branches and logs, all coming form the logging business upstream. The rivers are heavily polluted and killed of the fish. Along the river many places where big logs are loaded in boats. Some of the big logs are even transported from the rain forest by helicopters. From Kapit I took a speedboat to the government resort of Pelagus. A sort of propaganda stunt of the government to show the beauty of the rain forest. One of the few areas left over where there is still no logging. This to give the tourist a good impression of the rain forest and keeping him far away from the areas where the rain forest is destroyed by the logging companies. They also don't tell you that 100 km further stream upward they will built a dam for hydroelectric power, where 10.000 people have to move and resettle in an other area. I visited a longhouse of the Iban tribe. They originally came from the south (Kalimantan) and killed the original people who were living along the river. They were real fighters and headhunters.

3 June I returned, after a tiring night in a bus, to Miri, from where I flew on Saturday 5 June with 4 people (two Australians and two New Zealanders) with a twin otter to Long Banga our starting point for the 7 days hike. A guide accompanied us, who knew the region well and spoke 4 different dialects of the tribes living along the Baram River. It was quite a shock to fly over the deforested area. First the brown big river of the lower parts of the Baram, with ships heavily with logs going to the barges waiting on the Chinese Sea for them to transport the hardwood direct to mainly Japan. Then the mountainous area with a huge pattern of logging roads, just like a river system with all side branches. Very depressing site. Near Long Bang we flew over an area that was devastated during the heavy forest fires in 1998. Although these fires where started on purpose by men, are a direct result of the logging of the big trees. Leaving a forest where erosion and sunlight which have dried out the primary forest. The primary forest intact is so wet that it can not burn.

In Long Banga we met original Penan people who are still living in the bush and hunt wild animals (mainly the wild boar) with blowpipe and poisoned darts. This poison will kill you immediately even if it comes through a little scratch on your hand. The first three days we walked along very narrow paths through the primary forest, where sunlight and leaves are nearly not reaching the ground. Two porters of the Penan tribe accompanied us. Impressive was how the moved through the forest. They are able to catch a sleeping bird (Kingfisher) to roast above the fire. When they spoke to each other, it was soft spoken. I felt in comparison to them as a big elephant crushing his way through the jungle. Our first stay was a Penan village, where we met people who have not seen white people in three years. We stayed in a house of the chief of the village. In the evening we got a visit of 40 people, mainly children, to have a look at these white strangers. They told us that they have to move in a couple of years because logging will start in this area. From there on we slept in the jungle. The porters prepared in no time a hut where, with a piece of plastic, we would be dry when it should rain. At nightfall the forest thousand of insects are starting to make an incredible amount of noise. After two days of walking we reached the area of intensive logging. Along our trial we saw huge Meranti trees with a red cross and words of "No logging" and other cries of the Penan people trying to persuade the loggers to stop. There was no logging going on because of the big festival Gawai. Normally logging goes on day and night. We saw a huge tree cut down and only the best part of 20 meters was taken away, the rest stayed to rot. What rest is the secondary forest, with small trees in comparison with the large Meranti trees (up to 6o metres and to 9 meters thick) Before they reach these big trees they make a trace through the forest chopping down smaller trees. There are 6-8 Meranti trees on one acre. It was a very depressing site to walk on these logging roads. Especially knowing that the rain forest we walked through the last two days will be cut in the years to come. In spite of the heavy protests of the furious Penan people, who see how their home ground is taken way from them. They have to live in settlements and to give up their normal way of life of hunting and gatherer. The people now use the logging roads to travel from one place to the other, therefore their normal trails are abandoned. The Penan people are not accustomed to walk in the sun. A Penan says on this effect: " But it all these trees are gone, if there is no longer a way for us to stay here - hot - We can't stand it hot. It is painful you will see the illness if the sun comes through". We gradually came in an area where the big trees are taken away and the road is partly unusable to due to heavy erosion. After some time they will repair the road and chopping down the secondary forest. At the end there will be left over a forest with some small trees and thick brushes. After 50 kilometers of walking we arrived in the valley of Bario. The people of this town have tried years in vain to create of this region a national park. But the government will exploit the area for still more logging!

Flying back from Bario to Miri it was impressive to see the labyrinth of logging roads crisscrossing the mountainous rain forest. I could now better imagine how it looks from the ground. The pollution of the rivers, the land erosion along the roads, the large chunks of trees left on the side of the roads. All is waiting for a second treatment. This logging is a criminal act not only against the Penan people but also to humanity. The rain forests are the lungs of the world. The effect of this massive deforestation will have a great impact in the next century on our world climate.

I will end to give an account of the struggle of the Swiss Dr Bruno Manser who have fought like a lion together with the Penan people against the Malaysian authorities. In 1984 Bruno Manser first had contact with the Penan people in the Malaysian State of Sarawak, almost 15 years ago. At first Bruno lived among the Penan searching for the roots of mankind. He wanted to know more about peoples who lived more or less in an original unspoiled tradition. He became a kind of ambassador for the sufferings of an indigenous people threatened by logging companies and paramilitaries. Bruno spent six years in the rainforest of Borneo enduring many difficult situations (snakebite, fleeing from the paramilitaries, etc.). In 1989 Bruno came back to Switzerland, where he started a campaign to